Reese Cooper Innovates On His Own Terms
The designer discusses how breaking fashion norms and embracing authenticity has defined his career.
In the world of fashion, there is a special emphasis on what’s next. The next designer, the next trend, whatever it is, the horizon always seems a little brighter than what is in front of us.
In 2019, Reese Cooper was ‘next.’ He burst onto the scene with his eponymous label and little formal training before becoming the youngest-ever finalist for the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund.
It was at this point, in the peak of ‘popularity’ with everything in front of him that Cooper distinguished himself. It would have been easy to use this newfound notoriety to fall in line with the industry, and conform to the designer default of chasing trends and high-profile collaborations. But Cooper just returned to work, consistently producing distinct collections that seemed immune from outside influences. Whether intentionally or not, Cooper positioned himself as a design purist, someone who created what he loved and paid little mind to the churn of the industry around him. It’s this authenticity that has sustained Cooper well past that initial surge of popularity and endeared to him a loyal fanbase. Now, with the launch of his second label, RCOS, Cooper is once again telling his own unique story.
We sat down with Cooper to discuss his new collection, what it was like breaking into the industry and more.
"There will always be some reason things aren’t going the way you want them to, just don’t let it be because you didn't try as hard as you could have!"
You launched your brand without any formal training or schooling, how were you able to break through?
I often think not having the formal training is almost a superpower - I didn’t learn a “right way” or “wrong way” to do anything. By learning as you go, you really just learn what works for you and sometimes discover things you likely wouldn’t have learned otherwise.
How does that lack of formal training change your perspective compared to other designers?
I can’t speak for others, but I definitely have had plenty of experiences where a factory or pattern maker has said something won’t work, but that trying it anyway somehow gives us something that does. I think not knowing any guard rails, for better or worse, creates a lot of freedom.
At a time when more and more people are manufacturing overseas what compels you to keep producing in Los Angeles?
I’m happy to produce anywhere that works for the project. For mainline REESE COOPER® collections, LA makes the most sense for it because I’m consistently needing to be in the room and tweak things on the fly. The quality can be matched elsewhere I’m sure, but nothing beats being able to drive 5-10 minutes and be in the room for problem solving.
What inspired you to create RC Outdoor Supply, and how do you see it existing along Reese Cooper main line?
RCOS was created from a desire to participate in the section of fashion I usually purchase from. Personally, I wear a lot of clothing similar to the items we’re making with RCOS for the convenience and practicality of them. It relates more to my personal life on the day to day than it does my "artistic expression” I exercise with mainline REESE COOPER®.
What was the process like of launching RC Outdoor Supply?There was a really organic feel to the editorial, how was shooting that and introducing something new into the space?
Organic is key! Both the lookbook & campaign were shot, styled & modelled by friends of mine. I think that the energy of real friendships on sets always translates in the photos. The lookbook was shot at my office where friends often come hangout at, the campaign was shot on a road trip with close friends for a week just documenting what we did.
You had a quote that was on a t-shirt of yours a few years back that really stuck with me, along the lines of “we’re not particularly talented we just try really hard” I liked the idea of owning effort as something that is cool, is that still a mantra for you?
It will be forever. There will always be some reason things aren’t going the way you want them to, just don’t let it be because you didn't try as hard as you could have!
What is your feelings on the current state of menswear? How do you see yourself fitting into that?
I live in a bubble, I’m surrounded by friends who all have their own distinct opinions & styles so it’s sometimes hard to tell what's super popular right now. On the day to day, 90% of what I wear at this point is stuff I’ve made. From what I see online & in the streets, there’s a lot going on these & I’m honestly happy that I fit in anywhere at all!